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Knit Like Crazy Lesson 4

LESSON #4 DIAGONAL

 

 

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SOMETHING DIFFERENT !! OBJECTIVE: LEARN TO KNIT IN OTHER DIRECTIONS
We will learn how to make a diagonal sweater from 3 sts, any yarn

   

BOAT NECK DIAGONAL SWEATER
(STUDENTS BRING SCRAP YARN AND NEEDLES and garments they have knitted)

Cast on 3 sts of sturdy yarn, any size needle, usually 9 or so?
A good size for a big modern look is 29" or 30" wide and 30" or 32" long plus a 4" rib at bottom.
This sweater doesn't have a gauge until you start knitting because you will grow it as you knit it and you don't have to know how many stitches you have unless you are going to make a pattern on the sweater.
You will be increasing 1 stitch every row and 1 extra stitch every thrid row for a few rows at the beginning so pay attention for the first 26 rows - OK?

If you want to use a pattern stitch then you will have to account for the increases on the edge so you wont be thrown off in your pattern. You might want to use a circle marker and just have the pattern inside the marker but this will create a plain looking edge --think about it!

 

Lessons 1 Lesson 2 Lesson 3 Lesson 4

Lesson 5 Lesson 6 Lesson 7 Lesson 8

Lesson 9 Lesson 10 Lesson 11 Lesson 12

   


Cast on 3 stitches
Row 1 Purl increase 1 stitch beginning of row (4sts)
Row 2 Knit increase 1 stitch beginning of row (5sts)
Row 3 Purl - increase at beginning and END of row 7sts)
Row 4 Knit increase 1 stitch beginning of row (8sts)
Row 5 Purl - increase at beginning (9sts)
Row 6 Knit increase 1 stitch beginning of row and END of row (11sts)
Row 7 Purl - increase at beginning (12sts)
Row 8 Knit increase 1 stitch beginning of row (13sts)
Row 9 Purl - increase at beginning and END of row (15sts)
Row 10 Knit - increase at beginning ONLY (16sts)
Row 11 Purl - increase 1 stitch beginning of row (17sts)
Row 12 Knit - increase at beginning and END of row (19sts)
Row 13 Purl - increase 1 stitch beginning of row (20sts)
Row 14 Knit - increase at beginning ONLY (21sts)
Row 15 Purl - increase 1 stitch beginning of row and END of row (23sts)
Row 16 Knit - increase at beginning (24sts)
Row 17 Purl - increase 1 stitch beginning of row (25sts)
Row 18 Knit - increase at beginning ONLY (26sts)
Row 19 Purl - increase 1 stitch beginning of row (27sts)
Row 20 Knit - increase at beginning (28sts)
Row 21 Purl - increase 1 stitch beginning of row and END of row (30sts)
Row 22 Knit - increase at beginning (31sts)
Row 23 Purl - increase 1 stitch beginning of row (32sts)
Row 24 Knit - increase at beginning and END of row (34sts)
Row 25 Purl - increase 1 stitch beginning of row (35sts)
Row 26 Knit - increase at beginning ONLY (36sts)

   
    at this point increase BEGINNING OF EVERY row only UNTIL YOU REACH THE DECREASE SIDE.!!!!!!
YOU WILL HAVE TO COUNT STITCHES WHEN YOU GET CLOSE TO 36 STITCHES TO BEGIN DECREASING THE OPPOSITE CORNER. When you reach the decrease stage be sure you keep up this pattern
   
    Stay curious be sure you are "growing" in an even right angle. Lay out your work and keep looking at it. Using a different gauge yarn can throw you off unless you are aware of what you are doing at all times.    
   

The cast on edge is LEFT HIP

Continue until you reach the other hip. You may reach the hip before you reach the shoulder. When you get to the hip, decrease every time on that edge at beg. of every row (you still may be increasing at shoulder edge) YOU MAY WANT TO TIE A RIBBON ON THIS SIDE SO YOU WILL REMEMBER TO DECREASE INSTEAD OF INCREASE.
You will thereafter decrease at beginning of that side until you have reached the length of garment on the other side then you will be decreasing on both sides.

TIP: knit the other piece to this first piece's size before you really decide it is wide enough or tall enough- this way you can pin the two triangles together and "try it on" before you begin to decrease If you are working patterns or color changes you "might" want to match the back.

REMEMBER YOU ARE USING DIAGONAL KNITTING TO CREATE A RECTANGLE
If halter top you may reach top edge before you reach hip edge.
If top edge is getting pulled out too much then do a row of double decrease and maybe again later. BE CURIOUS Lay out the garment and look at how it is forming.

Neckline can just be left alone. You can pick up stitches and knit a binding by purling the first row then knit for 1 inch, bind off and sew in place inside like a hem. Neckline can be opened up a little bit by crocheting 3 stitches in each corner of the neck opening. Usually it is okay just left alone but it does depend on the yarns you are using. You can just crochet around neck if you like. Also a large turtleneck can be made by picking up stitches and knitting straight up. If you want it to roll then use stockinet stitch. If you want a stand up collar then knit up to tall enough, then one purl row and continue knitting to form hem. Tack down inside later.

SLEEVES CAN BE ANY STYLE - SHORT, DOLMAN, SQUARE, ETC.
When you have finished your body then attach your shoulder seams. You can now pick up stitches and knit on sleeves or you can knit sleeves from the wrist and then attach them to the body. You can have it sleeveless too.
Gauge you have the body as one big swatch for gauge !!! Whee!
now that you know how to increase and decrease and you have tried on the body and decided what kind of sleeves you want, just measure your gauge from your body(I presume you will be using the same yarns) and you know how many inches you want at the wrist or elbow or upper arm and how many inches you want at your armhole. Either multiply inches times stitch per inch or measure on your knitted garment body and actually count how many stitches for your armhole and how many stitches for your wrist. Determine how long your sleeve will be and count how many rows that is on the knitted garment body (or rows per inch times inches for length). How many stitches difference between wrist and armhole? How many rows to increase that many stitches? Well if it's that difficult then just knit a square sleeve ! Actually I knitted a square sleeve and then took 3 sizes smaller needles and smaller yarn and decreased the stitches all at once then knitted a 1 inch rib for a puffed sleeve and tight rib. This is not difficult. Once you have decided the look you want then go for it.
Seed stitch
Row 1 *K1, P1*
Row 2 *Purl all the knit sts and knit all the purl sts*
Repeat
Double seed stitch
Row 1 *K2,P2*
Row 2 Work sts as they face you
Row 3 *P2,K2*
Row 4 Work sts as they face you
Repeat

KNIT 4 OR MORE, PURL 4 OR MORE
ROW 2 work as facing
for as many rows to form a square then SWITCH - this will look like a basketweave but is really only a large seed stitch
Drop sts
Row 1 K each sts wrapping yarn twice (OR JUST ONCE IF YOU DESIRE)
Row 2 K (or P) into each st dropping extra wrap
Eyelet stitch
Work sts for 4 rows or so
Eyelet Row *K5, YO, K2 tog *
Work 4 rows as beginning
Popcorn
Work 4 or 6 rows
Popcorn Row *K5, Kin front, back, front, and back of next stitch (4sts), turn, K these 4 sts, turn, Kthese 4 sts
Slip the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st st over the 4th st
Repeat from * across all
Work 4 or 6 rows plain
Garter stitch
Knit every row

NEXT CLASS BRING SHOW AND TELL WE WANT TO LEARN FROM EACH OTHER
BRING TAPESTRY NEEDLE TOO-FOR FINISHING WORK-if you have swatches to sew together then bring them, if not bring yarn and needles to knit two swatches and we will then sew them together.

 

 

 

 


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