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BOAT
NECK DIAGONAL SWEATER
(STUDENTS BRING SCRAP YARN AND NEEDLES and garments they have knitted)
Cast on 3 sts of sturdy yarn, any size needle, usually 9 or so?
A good size for a big modern look is 29" or 30" wide and 30"
or 32" long plus a 4" rib at bottom.
This sweater doesn't have a gauge until you start knitting because you
will grow it as you knit it and you don't have to know how many stitches
you have unless you are going to make a pattern on the sweater.
You will be increasing 1 stitch every row and 1 extra stitch every thrid
row for a few rows at the beginning so pay attention for the first 26
rows - OK?
If you want to use
a pattern stitch then you will have to account for the increases on the
edge so you wont be thrown off in your pattern. You might want to use
a circle marker and just have the pattern inside the marker but this will
create a plain looking edge --think about it!
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Lessons 1 Lesson
2 Lesson 3 Lesson
4
Lesson
5 Lesson 6 Lesson
7 Lesson 8
Lesson
9 Lesson 10 Lesson
11 Lesson 12
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The
cast on edge is LEFT HIP
Continue until you reach the other hip. You may reach the hip before you
reach the shoulder. When you get to the hip, decrease every time on that
edge at beg. of every row (you still may be increasing at shoulder edge)
YOU MAY WANT TO TIE A RIBBON ON THIS SIDE SO YOU WILL REMEMBER TO DECREASE
INSTEAD OF INCREASE.
You will thereafter decrease at beginning of that side until you have
reached the length of garment on the other side then you will be decreasing
on both sides.
TIP: knit the other piece to this first piece's size before you really
decide it is wide enough or tall enough- this way you can pin the two
triangles together and "try it on" before you begin to decrease
If you are working patterns or color changes you "might" want
to match the back.
REMEMBER YOU ARE USING DIAGONAL KNITTING TO CREATE A RECTANGLE
If halter top you may reach top edge before you reach hip edge.
If top edge is getting pulled out too much then do a row of double decrease
and maybe again later. BE CURIOUS Lay out the garment and look at how
it is forming.
Neckline can just be left alone. You can pick up stitches and knit a binding
by purling the first row then knit for 1 inch, bind off and sew in place
inside like a hem. Neckline can be opened up a little bit by crocheting
3 stitches in each corner of the neck opening. Usually it is okay just
left alone but it does depend on the yarns you are using. You can just
crochet around neck if you like. Also a large turtleneck can be made by
picking up stitches and knitting straight up. If you want it to roll then
use stockinet stitch. If you want a stand up collar then knit up to tall
enough, then one purl row and continue knitting to form hem. Tack down
inside later.
SLEEVES CAN BE ANY STYLE - SHORT, DOLMAN, SQUARE, ETC.
When you have finished your body then attach your shoulder seams. You
can now pick up stitches and knit on sleeves or you can knit sleeves from
the wrist and then attach them to the body. You can have it sleeveless
too.
Gauge you have the body as one big swatch for gauge !!! Whee!
now that you know how to increase and decrease and you have tried on the
body and decided what kind of sleeves you want, just measure your gauge
from your body(I presume you will be using the same yarns) and you know
how many inches you want at the wrist or elbow or upper arm and how many
inches you want at your armhole. Either multiply inches times stitch per
inch or measure on your knitted garment body and actually count how many
stitches for your armhole and how many stitches for your wrist. Determine
how long your sleeve will be and count how many rows that is on the knitted
garment body (or rows per inch times inches for length). How many stitches
difference between wrist and armhole? How many rows to increase that many
stitches? Well if it's that difficult then just knit a square sleeve !
Actually I knitted a square sleeve and then took 3 sizes smaller needles
and smaller yarn and decreased the stitches all at once then knitted a
1 inch rib for a puffed sleeve and tight rib. This is not difficult. Once
you have decided the look you want then go for it.
Seed stitch
Row 1 *K1, P1*
Row 2 *Purl all the knit sts and knit all the purl sts*
Repeat
Double seed stitch
Row 1 *K2,P2*
Row 2 Work sts as they face you
Row 3 *P2,K2*
Row 4 Work sts as they face you
Repeat
KNIT 4 OR MORE, PURL 4 OR MORE
ROW 2 work as facing
for as many rows to form a square then SWITCH - this will look like a
basketweave but is really only a large seed stitch
Drop sts
Row 1 K each sts wrapping yarn twice (OR JUST ONCE IF YOU DESIRE)
Row 2 K (or P) into each st dropping extra wrap
Eyelet stitch
Work sts for 4 rows or so
Eyelet Row *K5, YO, K2 tog *
Work 4 rows as beginning
Popcorn
Work 4 or 6 rows
Popcorn Row *K5, Kin front, back, front, and back of next stitch (4sts),
turn, K these 4 sts, turn, Kthese 4 sts
Slip the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st st over the 4th st
Repeat from * across all
Work 4 or 6 rows plain
Garter stitch
Knit every row
NEXT CLASS BRING SHOW AND TELL WE WANT TO LEARN FROM EACH OTHER
BRING TAPESTRY NEEDLE TOO-FOR FINISHING WORK-if you have swatches to sew
together then bring them, if not bring yarn and needles to knit two swatches
and we will then sew them together.
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