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Knit Like Crazy Lesson 5

 

 

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Lessons 1 Lesson 2 Lesson 3 Lesson 4

Lesson 5 Lesson 6 Lesson 7 Lesson 8

Lesson 9 Lesson 10 Lesson 11 Lesson 12

 

 

 

   


   
   

 

   
         
         
   


LESSON #5 FINISHING
(STUDENTS BRING SAMPLE SQUARES AND TAPESTRY NEEDLES AND BRING SWEATERS THEY ARE KNITTING NOW)
OBJECTIVE: FINISH AND LOOK GOOD TOO !
GRAFTING AND WEAVING
SEAMS-3 TYPES
BOBBLE STITCH
TRAVELING CABLES
CABLES AND TWISTS
RUFFLES
DUPLICATE STITCH
SILK IS PROTEIN JUST LIKE HUMAN HAIR SO USE HAIR CONDITIONER IN THE RINSE WATER
BLOCK, FINISHING ,STARTING
Stretch your sweater to see how big it goes. always knit gauge in pattern you're using in sweater. If Aran knitting then knit width of sweater with all patterns to check gauge x 2" high. Less time than making mistakes during the real thing.
Knit one at each end of rib if you want to make joining easier.
You can knit in elastic thread but it shows and it may pop with repeated wearings. Instead just thread a row thru the cast on edge, or you can crochet a row or two of the elastic across the inside of the ribbing, catching only the knit stitches.
SEAMS-3 TYPES
When possible, use the same yarn you knit your sweater with. If it's too textured to be manageable then use a smoother yarn.


SIDE
PUT 2 INSIDES TOGETHER WORK ONE STS IN FROM EDGE weave under two over to other side and go into next hole you came from last time then under two and cross over to other side and go into next hole you came from last time, etc.
SHOULDER SEAM
MAKE LOOPS SAME SIZE AS BOUND OFF STS SO IT LOOKS LIKE ANOTHER ROW OF KNITTING slip your needle under the V pull thread loosely thru on needle under the V on the other side, etc.

SLEEVE TO SIDE COMBINATION under the V and over to other side and go under 1 or 2 sts depending on gauge then back to sleeve and under the V,etc. Remember you have more rows than stitches if all the same gauge !!


UNDER THE V
KEEP IT LOOSE LIKE SHOULDER under the V over to other piece and under the V , etc..........keep it loose !!GRAFTING IS SAME AS SHOULDER If stitches are still on two needles then put your sewing needle thru first stitch take stitch off needle and insert sewing needle needle thur first stitch on other knitting needle then back to first knitting needle and sew thru first stitch and second stitch (as if purl two together) then across to other knitting needle and thru first stitch and second stitch(as if to purl). letting the finished stitches fall off the knitting needle end until all are grafted together. If the two edges are bound-off then just insert sewing needle under the V's like shoulder.
GRAFTING IN REVERSE STOCKINETTE STITCH Insert tapestry needle front to back of first stitch then front to back of first stitch on other knitting needle. then insert back to front of first stitch on first knitting needle again and then front to back of second stitch on knitting needle etc. Repeat until all stitches are grafted together.
GRAFTING IN GARTER STITCH If last row of one piece is knit stitch and the last row of the other piece is purl stitch, what do we do - we make a decision !! But if both pieces to be grafted together are knit rows or purl rows then just graft together as if to purl or to knit.
If you are working cables to the bind off edge then be sure that you bind off on a row that is halfway between the cable twists. If you bind off immediately after a cable twist row, the fabric will pull in very tightly and/or if you bind off immediately before the next cable twist, the piece will stretch out and may be wider than your desired finished measurement.
When binding off across the top of a sleeve that will later be a puffed sleeve, you can pre-gather the stitches by working two or three stitches together across the last row while binding off.
INVISIBLE BIND-OFF (for the already crazy who want perfection) Perfect for neckbands and sleeve cuffs knit in single ribbing.
Insert the sewing needle knitwise into the knit stitch at the end of the knitting needle. Let the stitch fall from the knitting needle.
Skip the next purl stitch and insert the sewing needle purlwise in the next knit stitch and pull the yarn thru. Then insert the sewing needle purlwise into the purl stitch at the tip of the knitting needle. Pull the yarn thru and let the purl stitch fall from the knitting neefle.
Take the sewing needle behind the knit stitch and insert it knitwise into the next purl stitch. Pull the yarn thru and let both stitches fall from the knitting needle.
Continue across the piece until all stitches have been worked. Pull the sewing needle thru the last loop to finish the bind off.

PICK UP STS FOR NECK: either pick up actual stitches, or insert needle thru edge stitch and knit, etc around. ON BACK PICK UP LOOPS NOT V'S ON ONE IN FROM EDGE IF YOU PICK UP TOO MANY STS THEN IT WILL RUFFLE NECK RIBBING.
Be sure you know your rib gauge because if you want a perfect neck edge you need to know how many stitches for the rib so it will be perfect fit. Your rib stitches will be smaller than your pick up stitches-probably, because you will be using a smaller needle, etc.
If you are going to knit on your neckband it's best to do it before you add your sleeves because of the weight and bulk of the sleeves getting in your way.
BOBBLE: K5(knit into front and back of same stitch 5 times),turn and P5,turn and K5,turn and P2TOG THEN P3TOG,turn and K2TOG AND PULL TIGHT continue on row.
TRAVELING CABLE if you understand how a cable works then you can make it do anything. A cable is made of a few stitches, usually knit stitches(stockinette) and is usually set off by reverse stockinette stitches. Also it stands up when you lay several of these stitches across any other stitches. Traveling cables move any direction-not set pattern but ok if it is set pattern-when you make a cable of 3 stitches, for instance, and you want it to travel to the left(RS) then knit to the cable stitches and take them off the needle and hold to the front of your work, either on a special cable needle or just between your fingers(they probably wont go anywhere) and knit the first stitch after these and then put the cable stitches back on your left hand needle and knit them as usual (or knit them off the cable holder) then continue across row. When you return on wrong side then just purl them as usual. If you want to create a big loop then when you are ready to knit the cable stitches treat them as if you are making a bobble-might be easier to use another set of needles for the cable for this part- just knit and purl for as long as you want, making a long unattached cable then whenever you are ready to reconnect it you will knit one stitch of the body with each stitch of the cable(together). If you were knitting your body while all this was happening you discovered that the stitches that you took for the traveling cable are in the cable and missing from the body-just cast on some new ones there, they won't show because the cable is over the top of them but if you don't account for all your body stitches then your garment will be strange.
CABLES from nowhere-you don't need a body to have a cable. You can just cast on a few stitches on double pointed needles and knit DON'T TURN THE WORK slide to the other end of your needle and keep knitting. This makes a great coil, loops for buttons, belts, lots of fine things.
CABLE PATTERNING The cable action can be worked across anything from two to six stitches. Slip the number of stitches to be cabled on to a short needle with points at both ends (cable needle). The stitches on the cable needle are then brought to the front or taken to the back of the work. Knit the same number of stitches on the left-hand needle as those you have placed on the cable needle, then knit across the stitches on the cable needle.
Sometimes it is difficult to maintain an even fabric on the row you cross the stitches for the cable. You can "stretch" the stitches slightly creating slightly looser and longer stitches at the base of the cable. If this is your problem then use size smaller cable needle than the size you are using.
PLAITED CABLE (over 17 sts)
Row 1 (RS) K5,[p1,k5] twice.
Row 2 and all WR(wrong side) rows P5, [k1,p5] twice.
Row 3 Work right cable over 11 sts, p1,k5
Rows 5 and 7 Rep row 1
Row 9 K5,p1, work left cable over 11 sts.
Row 11 Rep row 1
Row 12 Rep row 2
Repeat these 12 rows for plaited cable
TWIST 3 POINT of needle into 3rd stitch on left hand needle. Knit the stitch in the ordinary way but do not slip it off the left-hand needle. Repeat in the second and then in the first stitch on the left hand needle and slip all three stitches off the needle together. TWIST 3 BACK same as twist 3 except you knit thru the back of the third, second and first stitch on the left-hand needle.

MOCK CABLE IF YOU ARE WORKING A TWIST 4, AND YOU KNIT INTO THE FRONT OF THE 4TH AND 3RD STITCHES THEN INTO THE BACK OF THE 2ND AND 1ST, YOU PRODUCE A MOCK CABLE
RUFFLES are easy. If you want a ruffle in the middle of your sleeve then just pick up stitches where ever you want the ruffle and increase one stitch in each stitch, either knit in front and back of each stitch, make one, knit in row below, anyway you want. Knit the ruffle as wide as you want and bind off loosely. It's easy.
DUPLICATE STITCH an embroidery stitch formed by retracing the path of the original stitch. Bring the needle thru at the center of the stitch to be worked from the back to the front. Insert the needle from right to left under the two loops of the stitch one row above and pull thru. Insert needle back into the center of the first stitch and through the center of the next stitch to the left or above and pull thru.
NEXT WEEK IS LAST LESSON OF THIS SET
BRING YOUR PROJECTS SO WE CAN SEE WHAT'S HAPPENING
WE WILL TALK ABOUT RIBS AND AGAIN RECAP COLOR, TEXTURE, GAUGE.
BRING YARN AND NEEDLES IF YOU WANT TO TRY SOME RIBS IN CLASS


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