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LESSON #5 FINISHING
(STUDENTS BRING SAMPLE SQUARES AND TAPESTRY NEEDLES AND BRING SWEATERS
THEY ARE KNITTING NOW)
OBJECTIVE: FINISH AND LOOK GOOD TOO !
GRAFTING AND WEAVING
SEAMS-3 TYPES
BOBBLE STITCH
TRAVELING CABLES
CABLES AND TWISTS
RUFFLES
DUPLICATE STITCH
SILK IS PROTEIN JUST LIKE HUMAN HAIR SO USE HAIR CONDITIONER IN THE RINSE
WATER
BLOCK, FINISHING ,STARTING
Stretch your sweater to see how big it goes. always knit gauge in pattern
you're using in sweater. If Aran knitting then knit width of sweater with
all patterns to check gauge x 2" high. Less time than making mistakes
during the real thing.
Knit one at each end of rib if you want to make joining easier.
You can knit in elastic thread but it shows and it may pop with repeated
wearings. Instead just thread a row thru the cast on edge, or you can
crochet a row or two of the elastic across the inside of the ribbing,
catching only the knit stitches.
SEAMS-3 TYPES
When possible, use the same yarn you knit your sweater with. If it's too
textured to be manageable then use a smoother yarn.
SIDE
PUT 2 INSIDES TOGETHER WORK ONE STS IN FROM EDGE weave under two over
to other side and go into next hole you came from last time then under
two and cross over to other side and go into next hole you came from last
time, etc.
SHOULDER SEAM
MAKE LOOPS SAME SIZE AS BOUND OFF STS SO IT LOOKS LIKE ANOTHER ROW OF
KNITTING slip your needle under the V pull thread loosely thru on needle
under the V on the other side, etc.
SLEEVE TO SIDE COMBINATION under the V and over to other side and go
under 1 or 2 sts depending on gauge then back to sleeve and under the
V,etc. Remember you have more rows than stitches if all the same gauge
!!
UNDER THE V
KEEP IT LOOSE LIKE SHOULDER under the V over to other piece and under
the V , etc..........keep it loose !!GRAFTING IS SAME AS SHOULDER If stitches
are still on two needles then put your sewing needle thru first stitch
take stitch off needle and insert sewing needle needle thur first stitch
on other knitting needle then back to first knitting needle and sew thru
first stitch and second stitch (as if purl two together) then across to
other knitting needle and thru first stitch and second stitch(as if to
purl). letting the finished stitches fall off the knitting needle end
until all are grafted together. If the two edges are bound-off then just
insert sewing needle under the V's like shoulder.
GRAFTING IN REVERSE STOCKINETTE STITCH Insert tapestry needle front to
back of first stitch then front to back of first stitch on other knitting
needle. then insert back to front of first stitch on first knitting needle
again and then front to back of second stitch on knitting needle etc.
Repeat until all stitches are grafted together.
GRAFTING IN GARTER STITCH If last row of one piece is knit stitch and
the last row of the other piece is purl stitch, what do we do - we make
a decision !! But if both pieces to be grafted together are knit rows
or purl rows then just graft together as if to purl or to knit.
If you are working cables to the bind off edge then be sure that you bind
off on a row that is halfway between the cable twists. If you bind off
immediately after a cable twist row, the fabric will pull in very tightly
and/or if you bind off immediately before the next cable twist, the piece
will stretch out and may be wider than your desired finished measurement.
When binding off across the top of a sleeve that will later be a puffed
sleeve, you can pre-gather the stitches by working two or three stitches
together across the last row while binding off.
INVISIBLE BIND-OFF (for the already crazy who want perfection) Perfect
for neckbands and sleeve cuffs knit in single ribbing.
Insert the sewing needle knitwise into the knit stitch at the end of the
knitting needle. Let the stitch fall from the knitting needle.
Skip the next purl stitch and insert the sewing needle purlwise in the
next knit stitch and pull the yarn thru. Then insert the sewing needle
purlwise into the purl stitch at the tip of the knitting needle. Pull
the yarn thru and let the purl stitch fall from the knitting neefle.
Take the sewing needle behind the knit stitch and insert it knitwise into
the next purl stitch. Pull the yarn thru and let both stitches fall from
the knitting needle.
Continue across the piece until all stitches have been worked. Pull the
sewing needle thru the last loop to finish the bind off.
PICK UP STS FOR NECK: either pick up actual stitches, or insert needle
thru edge stitch and knit, etc around. ON BACK PICK UP LOOPS NOT V'S ON
ONE IN FROM EDGE IF YOU PICK UP TOO MANY STS THEN IT WILL RUFFLE NECK
RIBBING.
Be sure you know your rib gauge because if you want a perfect neck edge
you need to know how many stitches for the rib so it will be perfect fit.
Your rib stitches will be smaller than your pick up stitches-probably,
because you will be using a smaller needle, etc.
If you are going to knit on your neckband it's best to do it before you
add your sleeves because of the weight and bulk of the sleeves getting
in your way.
BOBBLE: K5(knit into front and back of same stitch 5 times),turn and P5,turn
and K5,turn and P2TOG THEN P3TOG,turn and K2TOG AND PULL TIGHT continue
on row.
TRAVELING CABLE if you understand how a cable works then you can make
it do anything. A cable is made of a few stitches, usually knit stitches(stockinette)
and is usually set off by reverse stockinette stitches. Also it stands
up when you lay several of these stitches across any other stitches. Traveling
cables move any direction-not set pattern but ok if it is set pattern-when
you make a cable of 3 stitches, for instance, and you want it to travel
to the left(RS) then knit to the cable stitches and take them off the
needle and hold to the front of your work, either on a special cable needle
or just between your fingers(they probably wont go anywhere) and knit
the first stitch after these and then put the cable stitches back on your
left hand needle and knit them as usual (or knit them off the cable holder)
then continue across row. When you return on wrong side then just purl
them as usual. If you want to create a big loop then when you are ready
to knit the cable stitches treat them as if you are making a bobble-might
be easier to use another set of needles for the cable for this part- just
knit and purl for as long as you want, making a long unattached cable
then whenever you are ready to reconnect it you will knit one stitch of
the body with each stitch of the cable(together). If you were knitting
your body while all this was happening you discovered that the stitches
that you took for the traveling cable are in the cable and missing from
the body-just cast on some new ones there, they won't show because the
cable is over the top of them but if you don't account for all your body
stitches then your garment will be strange.
CABLES from nowhere-you don't need a body to have a cable. You can just
cast on a few stitches on double pointed needles and knit DON'T TURN THE
WORK slide to the other end of your needle and keep knitting. This makes
a great coil, loops for buttons, belts, lots of fine things.
CABLE PATTERNING The cable action can be worked across anything from two
to six stitches. Slip the number of stitches to be cabled on to a short
needle with points at both ends (cable needle). The stitches on the cable
needle are then brought to the front or taken to the back of the work.
Knit the same number of stitches on the left-hand needle as those you
have placed on the cable needle, then knit across the stitches on the
cable needle.
Sometimes it is difficult to maintain an even fabric on the row you cross
the stitches for the cable. You can "stretch" the stitches slightly
creating slightly looser and longer stitches at the base of the cable.
If this is your problem then use size smaller cable needle than the size
you are using.
PLAITED CABLE (over 17 sts)
Row 1 (RS) K5,[p1,k5] twice.
Row 2 and all WR(wrong side) rows P5, [k1,p5] twice.
Row 3 Work right cable over 11 sts, p1,k5
Rows 5 and 7 Rep row 1
Row 9 K5,p1, work left cable over 11 sts.
Row 11 Rep row 1
Row 12 Rep row 2
Repeat these 12 rows for plaited cable
TWIST 3 POINT of needle into 3rd stitch on left hand needle. Knit the
stitch in the ordinary way but do not slip it off the left-hand needle.
Repeat in the second and then in the first stitch on the left hand needle
and slip all three stitches off the needle together. TWIST 3 BACK same
as twist 3 except you knit thru the back of the third, second and first
stitch on the left-hand needle.
MOCK CABLE IF YOU ARE WORKING A TWIST 4, AND YOU KNIT INTO THE FRONT OF
THE 4TH AND 3RD STITCHES THEN INTO THE BACK OF THE 2ND AND 1ST, YOU PRODUCE
A MOCK CABLE
RUFFLES are easy. If you want a ruffle in the middle of your sleeve then
just pick up stitches where ever you want the ruffle and increase one
stitch in each stitch, either knit in front and back of each stitch, make
one, knit in row below, anyway you want. Knit the ruffle as wide as you
want and bind off loosely. It's easy.
DUPLICATE STITCH an embroidery stitch formed by retracing the path of
the original stitch. Bring the needle thru at the center of the stitch
to be worked from the back to the front. Insert the needle from right
to left under the two loops of the stitch one row above and pull thru.
Insert needle back into the center of the first stitch and through the
center of the next stitch to the left or above and pull thru.
NEXT WEEK IS LAST LESSON OF THIS SET
BRING YOUR PROJECTS SO WE CAN SEE WHAT'S HAPPENING
WE WILL TALK ABOUT RIBS AND AGAIN RECAP COLOR, TEXTURE, GAUGE.
BRING YARN AND NEEDLES IF YOU WANT TO TRY SOME RIBS IN CLASS
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(take needle and squares to demonstrate finishing and travel cable sweater)
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